As readers will know, there are already several power amplifier
projects, two using IC power amps (aka power opamps). Both have been
popular, and this project is not designed to replace either of them.
However, it is significantly smaller than the others, so it makes
building a multiple amp unit somewhat easier because the space demand is
much lower. It's quite simple to include 4 amps (two boards) into a
small space, but be aware that good heatsinking is essential if you
expect to run these amps at significant power levels.
The TDA7293 IC uses a MOSFET power stage, where the others featured use
bipolar transistors. The main benefit of the MOSFET stage is that it
doesn't need such radical protection circuitry as a bipolar stage, so
unpleasant protection circuit artefacts are eliminated. There are no
apparent downsides to the TDA7293, although it was found that one batch
required a much higher voltage on the Standby and Mute pins than
specified, or the amps would not work. This is not a limitation, since
both are tied to the positive supply rail and are therefore disabled.
This
particular project has been planned for a long time, but for some
reason I never got around to completing the board or the project
description. This is now rectified, and it's ready to "rock and roll".
The board is very small - only 77 x 31mm, so getting it into tight
spaces is easy ... provided adequate heatsinking is available of course.
Description
The
TDA7293 has a bewildering number of options, even allowing you to add a
second power stage (in another IC) in parallel with the main one. This
improves power into low impedance loads, but is a rather expensive way
to get a relatively small power increase. It also features muting and
standby functions, although I've elected not to use these.
The
schematic is shown in Figure 1, and is based on the PCB version. All
unnecessary functions have been disabled, so it functions as a perfectly
normal power amplifier. While the board is designed to take two TDA7293
ICs, it can naturally be operated with only one, and the PCB is small
enough so that this is not an inconvenience. A LED is included to
indicate that power is available, and because of the low current this
will typically be a high brightness type.
The IC has been shown in the same format that's shown in the data sheet,
but has been cleaned up for publication here. Since there are two amps
on the board, there are two of most of the things shown, other than the
power supply bypass caps and LED "Power Good" indicator. These ICs are
extremely reliable (as are most power amp ICs), and to reduce the PCB
size as much as possible, fuse clips and fuses have not been included.
Instead, there are fusible tracks on the board that will fail if there
is a catastrophic fault. While this is not an extremely reliable fuse,
the purpose is to prevent power transformer failure, not to protect the
amplifiers or PCB.
I normally use a gain of 23 (27dB) for all
amplifiers, and the TDA7293 is specified for a minimum gain of 26dB,
below which it may oscillate. Although this is only a small margin,
tests so far indicate that the amp is completely stable. If you wish,
you may increase the gain to 28 (29dB) to give a bit more safety margin.
To do this, just change the input and feedback resistors (R3A/B and
R4A/B) from 22k to 27k.
The circuit is conventional, and is very
simple because all additional internal functions are unused. The LED is
optional, and if you don't think you'll need it, it may be omitted,
along with series resistor R3. All connections can be made with plugs
and sockets, or hard wired. In most cases, I expect that hard wiring
will be the most common, as the connectors are a pain to wire, and add
unnecessary cost as well as reduce reliability.
The TDA7293
specifications might lead you to believe that it can use supply voltages
of up to ±50V. With zero input signal (and therefore no output) it
might, but I don't recommend anything greater than ±35V if 4 ohm loads
are expected, although ±42V will be fine if you can provide good
heatsinking. In general, the lower supply voltage is more than
acceptable for 99% of all applications, and higher voltages should not
be used unless there is no choice. Naturally, if you can afford to lose a
few ICs to experiments, then go for the 42V supplies (obtained from a
30+30V transformer).
Construction
Because
of the pin spacings, these ICs are extremely awkward to use without a
PCB. Consequently, I recommend that you use the ESP board because it
makes building the amplifier very simple. The PCBs are double sided with
plated-through holes, so are very unforgiving of mistakes unless you
have a good solder sucker. The best way to remove parts from a double
sided board is to cut the pins off the component, then remove each pin
fragment individually. This is obviously not something you'd wish to do
if a power amp IC were installed incorrectly, since it will be unusable
afterwards.
The diagram above shows the pinouts for the TDA7293V (the "V" means
vertical mounting). Soldering the ICs must be left until last. Mount the
ICs on your heatsink temporarily, and slide the PCB over the pins. Make
sure that all pins go through their holes, and that there is no strain
on the ICs that may try to left the edge off the heatsink. When ICs and
PCB are straight and aligned, carefully solder at least 4 pins on each
IC to hold them in place. The remaining pins can then be soldered.
Remember, if you mess up the alignment at this point in construction, it
can be extremely difficult to fix, so take your time to ensure there
are no mistakes.
This amplifier must not be connected to a preamp
that does not have an output coupling capacitor. Even though there is a
cap in the feedback circuit, it can still pass DC because there is no
input cap on the PCB. I normally include an input cap, but the goal of
this board was to allow it to fit into the smallest space possible, and
the available board space is not enough to include another capacitor. A
volume control (typically 10k log/ audio taper) may be connected in the
input circuit if desired.
Note that the metal tab of the TDA7293
is connected to the -Ve supply, so must be insulated from the heatsink.
The more care you take with the mounting arrangement, the better. While
you can use a screw through an insulating bush and a piece of mica to
insulate the tab, a better alternative is to use a clamping bar of some
kind. How you go about this depends a lot on your home workshop tools
and abilities, but one arrangement I've found highly satisfactory is a
suitable length of 6.25mm square solid steel bar. This is very strong,
and allows good pressure on the mica (or Kapton) for maximum heat
transfer. Naturally, heatsink compound is absolutely essential.
Do
not be tempted to use silicone insulation washers unless you are using
the amp at very low supply voltages (no more than ±25V). Its thermal
transfer characteristics are not good enough to allow the amp to produce
more than about 10 - 20W of music, and even that can be taxing for
silicone washers. The amp will shut down if it overheats, but that
curtails one's listening enjoyment until it cools down again.
Power Supply
A
suitable power supply is shown below, and is completely unremarkable in
all respects. The transformer may be a conventional (E-I) laminated
type or a toroid. The latter has the advantage of lower leakage flux, so
will tend to inject less noise into the chassis and wiring.
Conventional transformers are usually perfectly alright though, provided
you take care with the mounting location.
The bridge rectifier
should be a 35A 400V type, as they are cheap, readily available and
extremely rugged. Electrolytic capacitors should be rated at 50V. The
cap connected across the transformer secondary (C4) should be rated at
275V AC (X Class), although a 630V DC cap will also work. This capacitor
reduces "conducted emissions", namely the switching transients created
by the diodes that are coupled through the transformer onto the mains
supply. The power supply will work without this cap, and will most
likely pass CE and C-Tick tests as well, but for the small added cost
you have a bit of extra peace of mind as regards mains noise.
The supply shown includes a "loop breaker", which is intended to prevent
earth/ ground loops to prevent hum when systems are interconnected.
Please be aware that it may not be legal to install this circuit in some
countries. The diodes must be high current types - preferably rated at
no less than 3A (1N5401 or similar). The loop breaker works by allowing
you to have the chassis earthed as required in most countries, but lets
the internal electronics "float", isolated from the mains earth by the
10 ohm resistor. RF noise is bypassed by the 100nF cap, and if a primary
to secondary fault develops in the transformer, the fault current will
be bypassed to earth via the diodes. If the fault persists and the
internal fuse (or main power circuit breaker) hasn't opened, one or both
diodes will fail. Semiconductor devices fail short-circuit, so fault
current is connected directly to safety earth.
Be very careful
when first applying mains power to the supply. Check all wiring
thoroughly, verify that all mains connections are protected from
accidental contact. If available, use a Variac, otherwise use a standard
100W incandescent lamp in series with the mains. This will limit the
current to a safe value if there is a major fault.
When the loop
breaker is used, all input and output connectors must be insulated from
the chassis, or the loop breaker is bypassed and will do nothing useful.
The body of a level pot (if used) can be connected to chassis, because
the pot internals are insulated from the body, mounting thread and
shaft.
Note that the DC ground for the amplifiers must come from
the physical centre tap between the two filter caps. This should be a
very solid connection (heavy gauge wire or a copper plate), with the
transformer centre tap connected to one side, and the amplifier earth
connections from the other. DC must be taken from the capacitors - never
from the bridge rectifier.
The order of the fuse and power
switch is arbitrary - they can be in any order, and in many cases the
order is determined by the physical wiring of the IEC connector if a
fused type is used. With a fused IEC connector, the fuse is before the
switch and it cannot be removed while the mains lead is inserted.
I
have shown a 2A slow-blow fuse, but this depends on the size and type
of transformer and your mains supply voltage. Some manufacturers give a
recommended fuse rating, others don't. The fuse shown is suitable for a
150VA transformer at 230V AC, and is deliberately oversized to ensure
that it will not be subject to nuisance blowing due to transformer
inrush current. A 2A fuse will fail almost instantly if there is a major
fault.
Make sure that the mains earth (ground) is securely
connected to guarantee a low resistance connection that cannot loosen or
come free under any circumstances. The accepted method varies from one
country to the next, and the earth connection must be made to the
standards that apply in your country.
Testing
Never attempt to operate the amplifier without the TDA7293 ICs attached to a heatsink!
Connect
to a suitable power supply - remember that the supply earth (ground)
must be connected! When powering up for the first time, use 100 ohm 5W
"safety" resistors in series with each supply to limit the current if
you have made a mistake in the wiring. If available, use a variable
bench supply - you don't need much current to test operation, and around
500mA is more than enough. If using a current limited bench supply, the
safety resistors can be omitted. Do not connect a speaker to the
amplifier at this stage!
If using a normal power supply for the
amp tests, apply power (±35V via the safety resistors) and verify that
the current is no more than 60mA or so - about 6V across each 100 ohm
resistor. No load current can vary, so don't panic if you measure a
little more or less. Verify that the DC voltage at both outputs is less
than 100mV. Using another 100 ohm resistor in series with a small
speaker, or an oscilloscope, apply a sinewave signal at about 400Hz to
the input and watch (or listen) for signal. The signal level needs to be
adjusted to ensure the amp isn't clipping, and the waveform should be
clean, with no evidence of parasitic oscillation or audible distortion.
If
everything tests out as described, wire the amplifier directly to the
power supply and finish off any internal wiring in the amp. Once
complete, it's ready to use.
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